Archive for May, 2007

I just can’t wait for my CSA shares to start coming in, so yesterday I went to a farmers market in downtown Boston. My hopes were high, and I spent the entire train ride imagining all the fun greens and maybe even baby spring vegetables I’d bring home. When I arrived, the first tent was full of flowers. The next, herbs. Then there was a bread and pastry tent, some more herbs and flowers, and… that was it.
Where are my vegetables!

I milled around the short string of tents, walking up and down the line, desperately trying to find something other than impatiens and coffee cake. Then I started asking myself, “well, do I need a $25 two year old rosemary plant?” I wanted the answer to be yes, but I kept moving. Finally, tucked between chocolate mint and calla lilies was a huge basket of… leaves? Vines? I wasn’t sure what it was, but it looked like I could eat it. The sign said, “Organic Sweet Pea Tendrils - $3/box.”
I marched up and said, “I’ll take a box, please” as the man behind the table was trying to offer me a sample. “oh,” he said, “you’ll just buy some then?” He probably had spent most of the morning explaining what pea tendrils are and handing out samples to convince people that they really are tasty and you really should eat them. But not me! I’m used to buying mysterious vegetables.
I have a bit of an addiction to trying new and interesting greens. I had no idea, of course, that you could eat pea tendrils. I had no clue as to what they tasted like, but I didn’t care! I wanted a box of that leafy mass he was standing behind; I’d figure out the details later. Of course, as soon as I got home I spent an hour googling them, all the while wishing I had asked a few questions when I bought them.

So here’s what I found out: they are usually lightly stir fried in Chinese cooking, but I think that pertains to pea tendrils that are a bit older and sturdier than the ones I bought. The tendrils I came home with were very delicate, almost the same texture as the clover you have growing in your lawn but with crisper stems. I had no desire to cook them at all, so I whipped up this salad. I did keep the asian flavors, though, by using daikon radish and a sesame soy dressing.
I hope I find them again before spring is over. They are deliciously crisp and sweet, and they taste like peas! Their texture is nice balance between the soft leaves and the thin crispy stems. They don’t keep well, so if you find them at a farmers market or elsewhere, be prepared to eat them that day. I hear you can even grow them yourself quite easily, even indoors.
In short, I’m in love with pea tendrils. You should be, too.

May 31st, 2007

I hope my US readers had a wonderful long weekend! Summer seems just around the corner, so I’ve been thinking about ice cream. And cupcakes. And cupcake versions of ice cream. These are more recognizable as cupcakes than my last attempt at ice cream look alike cupcakes, and easier to eat to boot.
Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World has a recipe for banana split cupcakes, but I wanted something simpler (read: I was already half-way through making my own version when I realized Isa and Terry had probably already thought of it, and lo and behold, it’s on page 81). These here are the Golden Vanilla Cupcakes. It’s my default yellow cake recipe, if you haven’t noticed.
The frosting is banana buttercream, but don’t worry, it doesn’t have any icky banana extracts in it. I hate banana-flavored things - only the real deal with suit me! If you blend a banana into your frosting you get a light but yummy banana flavor that doesn’t taste like chemical bananas. So that’s good, right?
Simple Banana Split Cupcakes
Makes 12 Cupcakes
1 Batch Golden Vanilla Cupcakes, cooled (air conditioners cool more than people)
12 Maraschino Cherries
1/2 Cup Chococlate Chips, melted (or pre-made chocolate sauce)
2 Tbs Soymilk
Chopped Nuts, optional (peanuts are classic)
Sprinkles
Banana Buttecream
Banana Buttercream Frosting
1/2 Cup Earth Balance, softened
1/2 Cup Non-Hydrogenated Vegetable Shortening, softened
1 Ripe Banana
3/4 Box Powdered Sugar
Bake and cool cupcakes. Place chocolate chips and soymilk in a double boiler and melt slowly, whisking until smooth. Set aside. Whip frosting ingredients together until smooth and airy; use a stand mixer if available.
Frost cupcakes, add cherries. Drizzle with chocolate sauce and sprinkle with nuts, if using. Use extra banana slices or dried banana chips for an extra garnish.

May 28th, 2007

Fiddlehead ferns are one of spring’s most elusive goodies. The are available for about three weeks in May (as in right this second), and are generally harvested in the northeastern United States. A fiddlehead is the tip of an unfurling Ostrich Fern frond, quickly snapped off with the flick of the wrist by professional foragers in the wild. If you see some growing in the woods near you, take care. There are many other ferns that resemble the Ostrich Fern, some of which are considered to be carcinogenic, like the Bracken Fern. Unless you have a guide with you, leave the collecting to the professionals and pick some up at Whole Foods. They cost $6 a pound in Boston.
Their flavor is mild, and perhaps most closely resembles asparagus, and asparagus is the best substitute for the ferns. Some also say they are similar to green beans and artichokes. They are pleasently crunchy with a nutty, slightly bitter bite, which is why you’ll see so many fiddlehead recipes calling for butter and salt. Treat the fiddleheads like asparagus tips and you can’t go wrong. If you really want a treat, serve them up with some morel mushrooms; their season coincides almost exactly with the ferns and they pair well.

There are a few things you need to know about preparing fiddleheads. Most importantly, eat them immeditely. Fiddleheads do not keep well, so you should try to use them the same day you buy them. You can keep them covered for a few days in the fridge, but their flavor diminishes quickly and they will spoil soon after that. Do yourself a favor and eat them as soon as possible.
To prep the fiddleheads, any leftover “silk” should be removed. The silk is a thin, brown, papery covering that resembles a peanut casing. Most of this is taken off before distributors put them up for sale, but there are always remnants that need to be removed. You can rub it off with your fingers; I prefer to do it in a bath of cold water. Rinse them in a bowl, gently agitating them with your fingers and pouring off the water until it is free of particles. Drain well and pat dry.
People argue about how you’re supposed to cook fiddleheads. Health officials recommend that you boil them for 15 minutes or steam for 10-12 before eating. Why? Because fiddleheads have been associated with certain unpleasant G.I. sicknesses. However, the same article references three sources that claim that Ostrich Fern fiddleheads are safe to eat in any state, raw or cooked.
Personally, I have always lightly cooked my fiddleheads and I have never had an issue. If I had to boil them for 15 minutes to eat them, I wouldn’t eat them at all! The delight of fiddleheads is their delicate taste and toothsome crunch - boiling them for that long would destroy all that I love about this tender green. You should do whatever makes you feel comfortable.
A recipe for my upcoming cookbook: Herbed Lemon Butter Spaghetti with Fiddleheads

May 25th, 2007

This pesto tastes like spring; it’s fresh, green, bright, and crisp with a hint of sweetness. The peppery, green taste of the arugula is nicely set off by the creamy, sweet pistachios. This was my first time trying broccolini, and can I tell you something?
It might be my new favorite vegetable.
It’s a cross between broccoli and Chinese broccoli (also know as Chinese cabbage or Chinese kale). It’s sweeter and more tender than broccoli with long, delicious stalks. It’s mild with a teeny tiny mustard bite. In other words, it’s totally awesome.
It’s so mild and tender, you can definitely eat it raw. When you’re cooking it, less is more. For this recipe I cooked it very quickly over very high heat - that way I could caramelize it without overcooking. It’s so good. Do pick some up if you run across it at the market.

Pistachio Arugula Pesto with Penne and Sauteed Broccolini
Serves 2
8 Stalks Broccolini
2 Cups Dry Penne
2 Tbs Olive Oil
Pepper
1/2 tsp Balsamic Vinegar
1 Pinch Salt
Pistachio Arugula Pesto - Serves four
1/2 Cup Roasted, Unsalted Pistachios
2 Tbs Sweet White Miso
1 Pinch Salt
2 Cups Arugula
4-5 Tbs Olive Oil
Fresh Cracked Pepper
Start heating your water. Place pistachios in the bowl of a food processor with salt and miso and pulse 4 times for 1 second per pulse. Roughly chop arugula and add it to the top. Drizzle in olive oil. Do not finish processing until pasta is completed.
Cook your pasta. A few minutes before pasta is finished, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saute pan until over medium until fairly hot but not smoking. Trim any dry ends off the broccolini but leave a long stalk. Add it to the hot pan with a pinch of salt. Let cook on one side for 1-2 minutes, or until browned, then turn with tongs to cook another side. When broccolini is bright green and tender crisp, turn off heat and add vinegar, tossing vigorously to coat.
Blend the pesto until well combined, but you should still be able to see chunks of pistachios and arugula.
Drain and toss pasta with 1/2 cup of pesto (you’ll have some left over). Plate and layer broccolini stalks on top. Serve immediately.

May 19th, 2007
Just a brief update: more ticket are available right now!! If you want to go to Secret Kitchen, this might be your last chance to secure a seat!
Get tickets here!
I can assure you that the food will be fantastic. Who can say no to an 8 course gourmet vegan dinner at a super fun (and secret!) location with an awesome band for only $35?
Hope to see you there!
Photo: Tangy Tangerine Baked Tofu Cutlets, a VCON test recipe.
May 15th, 2007
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